By Matt Ruggieri, Co-Founder and Head of Product Development
Every ingredient in the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser is there for a reason. That's not a marketing line. It's the standard we hold ourselves to when we build a formula. So I want to walk you through exactly what is in this cleanser, what each ingredient does, and why we chose it over the alternatives.
Most people don't think about their cleanser as a place where real skincare happens. They use it for 60 seconds, rinse it off, and move on. We built this formula around the idea that those 60 seconds can do a lot more than most cleansers let them.
The Surfactant System: Why This Lather Doesn't Strip
The first question people ask about any foaming cleanser is: will it dry out my skin?
The honest answer is that most foaming cleansers do, because most rely on harsh sulfates to create lather. The Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser uses none of them.
Instead, we built a multi-surfactant system using:
- Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine — a coconut-derived amphoteric surfactant known for being exceptionally mild and conditioning
- Lauryl Glucoside and Decyl Glucoside — sugar-based surfactants that are gentle on the barrier and biodegradable
- Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate — a mild amino acid-based surfactant that cleans effectively at a low use level
- Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate and Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate — gentle secondary surfactants that boost lather without the irritation profile of traditional sulfates
Together, this blend creates a real lather that actually removes makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup, without disrupting the lipid layer of the skin. The result is what we set out to build: a cleanser that gives you the "actually washed" feeling without the tightness that follows.
HydraCactus Complex®: Our Proprietary Barrier Ingredient
HydraCactus Complex® is the ingredient I'm most proud of in this formula, because it's ours. We developed it specifically for the Radical Repair® line, and it shows up in the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser, the Radical Repair® Retinol Reinvented Serum, and the Radical Repair® Barrier Balm.
It is a two-ingredient complex:
- Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract (Prickly Pear Cactus) — rich in betalains, polysaccharides, and amino acids that help calm the appearance of redness and support the skin barrier's ability to retain moisture
- Desert Date Oil (Balanites Aegyptiaca) — a nourishing oil pressed from the seeds of a tree that grows in some of the driest environments on earth. It's high in oleic and linoleic acid, and it helps skin look softer and more balanced.
What makes HydraCactus Complex® interesting in a rinse-off formula is that the actives in both of these ingredients work quickly enough to provide a visible benefit even during the short window of a cleanse. Skin looks calmer, less reactive, and more balanced immediately after rinsing. That's what "soothes and fortifies the barrier" actually means in practice.
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid: The Form That Actually Penetrates
You've seen hyaluronic acid everywhere. But not all hyaluronic acid is the same, and the version matters, especially in a rinse-off product.
Standard hyaluronic acid (sodium hyaluronate) has a large molecular size. It sits on the surface of the skin and draws moisture from the air. That's useful in a serum or moisturizer. In a rinse-off product, most of it washes away before it can do much.
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is a smaller molecular weight form. Because the molecule has been enzymatically broken down, it can move below the surface layer of the skin rather than just sitting on top. It helps skin retain moisture from within, which means the hydrating effect carries through the rinse.
That difference in molecular size is what lets us make the hydration claim you'll see on the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser packaging. It's not just present in the formula. It's present in a form that's designed to work in a rinse-off context.
Pentavitin® (Saccharide Isomerate): The Moisture Binder That Stays on Skin
This is the ingredient I use most often to explain why this cleanser is genuinely different from a conventional face wash.
Pentavitin® is the trademarked name for Saccharide Isomerate, a plant-derived compound that is structurally similar to the skin's own Natural Moisturization Factor (NMF). The NMF is the system your skin uses to hold water in the upper layers of the stratum corneum.
Here's what makes Pentavitin® different from every other moisturizing ingredient we looked at:
It doesn't just attract water. It binds directly to skin proteins.
Most humectants, including glycerin and standard hyaluronic acid, work by drawing moisture from the environment or from deeper skin layers to the surface. When you rinse them off, they go with the water. Pentavitin® forms a physical bond with the keratin proteins in the outer layers of the skin. That bond is not broken by water. It persists through the rinse, and it keeps working long after application.
For an ingredient in a rinse-off formula, that kind of staying power is exceptional.
The reason we built the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser around Pentavitin® as a core active, rather than putting it only in a leave-on product, is that cleansing is where the skin is most vulnerable to moisture loss. Every cleanse has the potential to disrupt the barrier. Pentavitin® puts a moisture lock in place the moment you rinse, so the barrier starts recovering immediately instead of waiting for the rest of your routine.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate: The Brightening Bonus
Most people don't expect to find a vitamin C derivative in a cleanser. We put one in here, and I want to explain why it's worth including.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) is a water-soluble, stable form of vitamin C. Pure ascorbic acid, the most well-known form of vitamin C in skincare, is notoriously unstable. It oxidizes quickly when exposed to air and light, which is why vitamin C serums often turn orange and lose potency. MAP is a phosphorylated form that is significantly more stable and less irritating, making it a better fit for a formula that will be used twice daily.
In the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser, MAP is there to help visibly brighten skin tone over time with consistent use. It's a supporting player, not the star, but it adds a real treatment benefit to what would otherwise be a purely cleansing step. Think of it as a daily brightening deposit that compounds over weeks of morning and evening use.
Panthenol (Vitamin B5): The Barrier Soother
Panthenol is one of the most well-researched and dependable ingredients in skincare. It is the provitamin form of vitamin B5, meaning the skin converts it to pantothenic acid on contact.
In the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser, panthenol works alongside the surfactant system to counteract any potential dryness from cleansing. It is a humectant, meaning it attracts and holds moisture in the skin. It also helps support the appearance of skin softness and smoothness, and it has a well-established calming effect on the barrier.
For a cleanser used twice daily, including by people with reactive or sensitive skin, panthenol is the kind of ingredient that earns its place in the formula by making the entire experience gentler.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice: The Calming Base
Aloe vera is one of the oldest skin-calming ingredients on record, and it's in the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser for the same reason it's been used for centuries: it works.
The juice of the Aloe Barbadensis leaf contains a mix of polysaccharides, glycoproteins, and anthraquinones that help skin look and feel soothed after cleansing. In this formula, it acts as a calming base that helps the entire system feel more comfortable on the skin, particularly for anyone whose complexion tends to look red or irritated after washing.
The Scent System: Spearmint, Peppermint, and Lavandin
The Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser is free of synthetic fragrance. The cool, herbal scent and noticeable tingle come entirely from three essential oils:
- Mentha Viridis (Spearmint) Leaf Oil — the primary scent driver, fresh and herbaceous without the intensity of straight peppermint
- Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil and Menthol — responsible for the cooling sensation you feel when the formula activates on your skin
- Lavandula Intermedia (Lavandin) Oil — a softer, more camphorous lavender that rounds out the blend and adds a calming quality to the sensory experience
The tingle is real and intentional. It signals that the formula is active, and for people who use this as a morning cleanser, it provides that wake-up moment that starts the routine on the right note.
The Full Ingredient List, Annotated
For those who like to read the full INCI list, here is every ingredient in the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser with a brief note on what it does:
- Water (Aqua, Eau) — the base of the formula
- Glycerin — humectant, draws moisture to the skin's surface
- Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine — mild coconut-derived surfactant
- Propanediol — plant-derived solvent and humectant, improves texture and ingredient penetration
- Stearyl Alcohol, Glycol Distearate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Myristic Acid, Arachidic Acid — fatty alcohols and acids that give the cleanser its rich, cream texture
- Lauryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside — sugar-based mild surfactants
- Sodium Methyl 2-Sulfolaurate, Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate — gentle secondary surfactants
- Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate — amino acid-derived mild surfactant
- Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate — mild surfactant with good conditioning properties
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate — gentle lather booster, distinct from sodium lauryl sulfate
- Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate — mild emulsifier and conditioning agent
- Phenoxyethanol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Phytate — preservative system
- Sodium Chloride — salt, helps adjust the viscosity of the formula
- Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 — thickener, gives the formula its smooth, creamy consistency
- Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum — natural gums that help stabilize and thicken the formula
- Saccharide Isomerate (Pentavitin®) — plant-derived moisture binder that bonds directly to skin proteins
- Panthenol — provitamin B5, humectant and barrier soother
- Mentha Viridis (Spearmint) Leaf Oil — essential oil, primary scent
- Lavandula Intermedia Oil — essential oil, calming scent note
- Linalool, Linalyl Acetate — naturally occurring components of the lavender oil
- Menthol — cooling sensation compound from peppermint
- Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil — essential oil, cooling sensory
- Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract — prickly pear cactus, part of HydraCactus Complex®
- Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice — calming, soothing base
- Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid — small molecular weight HA for deeper hydration
- Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate — stable vitamin C derivative, helps visibly brighten skin
- Pentasodium Triphosphate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid — chelating agents and pH adjusters
- Alcohol — used in minimal amounts to help solubilize some of the active ingredients
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the key ingredients in the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser?
The three hero actives are HydraCactus Complex® (a proprietary blend of prickly pear cactus extract and desert date oil), Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid (a small molecular weight form that penetrates below the skin's surface to support hydration from within), and Pentavitin® (Saccharide Isomerate), a plant-derived moisture binder that bonds directly to skin proteins and keeps skin feeling hydrated long after rinsing. The formula also includes Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (a stable vitamin C derivative that helps visibly brighten skin), Panthenol (vitamin B5), and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice.
What is HydraCactus Complex® and what does it do for skin?
HydraCactus Complex® is Onekind's proprietary ingredient, developed exclusively for the Radical Repair® line. It combines Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract (prickly pear cactus) and desert date oil to help calm the appearance of redness, soften the skin's texture, and support a balanced, resilient-looking barrier. It appears in the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser, the Radical Repair® Retinol Reinvented Serum, and the Radical Repair® Barrier Balm.
What is Pentavitin (Saccharide Isomerate) and does it actually work in a rinse-off product?
Pentavitin® (Saccharide Isomerate) is a plant-derived moisture binder that mimics the skin's own Natural Moisturization Factor. Unlike most humectants, Pentavitin bonds directly to the keratin proteins in the outer layers of skin rather than simply sitting on the surface. Because it forms a physical bond with skin proteins, it is not rinsed away with water. Because it forms a physical bond with skin proteins rather than simply sitting on the surface, it is not rinsed away with water — which is why we specifically chose this ingredient for a rinse-off formula.
What is Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and how is it different from regular hyaluronic acid?
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is a lower molecular weight form of hyaluronic acid produced by enzymatically breaking down the larger molecule. Standard hyaluronic acid (sodium hyaluronate) has a large molecular size that limits it to the skin's surface, where it draws moisture from the environment. The smaller molecular size of the hydrolyzed form allows it to move below the surface layer and support the skin's ability to retain moisture from within. In a rinse-off product like the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser, this distinction matters because there is less contact time for the ingredient to work.
Is there vitamin C in the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser?
Yes. The formula contains Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP), a stable, water-soluble form of vitamin C. Unlike pure ascorbic acid, which is highly prone to oxidation and can be irritating at effective concentrations, MAP is significantly more stable and gentler on skin. With daily morning and evening use of the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser, MAP contributes a consistent brightening benefit that builds over time.
Is the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser sulfate-free?
Yes. The entire surfactant system in the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser is sulfate-free. It does not contain Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) or Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES). The cleansing and lather come from a blend of mild alternatives including sugar-based glucosides, an amino acid-derived surfactant (Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate), and a coconut-derived amphoteric surfactant (Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine).
Does the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser contain synthetic fragrance?
No. The Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser is free of synthetic fragrance. The scent and cooling sensation come entirely from three essential oils: Mentha Viridis (Spearmint) Leaf Oil, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil, and Lavandula Intermedia (Lavandin) Oil, along with naturally occurring Menthol and the lavender-derived components Linalool and Linalyl Acetate.
What makes the surfactants in this cleanser gentle?
Harsh cleansers typically rely on Sodium Lauryl Sulfate or Sodium Laureth Sulfate, which are effective at removing oil but can disrupt the skin's lipid barrier and cause dryness, tightness, and irritation with regular use. The Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser uses a combination of sugar-derived glucosides, amino acid-based surfactants, and coconut-derived surfactants that have a milder interaction with the skin barrier. This is why the formula can produce a real lather while still being appropriate for twice-daily use on all skin types, including sensitive.
What does Panthenol do in a cleanser?
Panthenol is the provitamin form of vitamin B5. When applied to skin, it converts to pantothenic acid, which acts as a humectant (attracting and holding moisture) and helps support the appearance of smoother, softer skin. In the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser, Panthenol works alongside the other humectant actives to make the cleansing experience gentler and to leave skin feeling more comfortable after rinsing, rather than tight or stripped.
Is the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser cruelty-free?
Yes. The Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser is double certified cruelty-free by both Leaping Bunny and PETA. It is made in Canada and retails for $34 USD for a 3.3 fl. oz (100 mL) tube.
How does the Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser fit into the Radical Repair® system?
The Radical Repair® Nourishing Cream Cleanser is the first step in the Radical Repair® routine, and it sets up the rest of the system to work more effectively. By cleansing without stripping the barrier and loading skin with humectant actives like Pentavitin® and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid before the rinse, it primes the skin to better absorb what comes next. Pairing it with the Radical Repair® Retinol Reinvented Serum and the Radical Repair® Barrier Balm gives you a complete barrier-focused routine built around the same proprietary HydraCactus Complex® ingredient across every step.
